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For October, 2009.

Oct 30 2009

News 30th October


A Reminder:  Winter Opening Hours begin on 1st November!  

The East Street site will be closed until April, but the Ypres Tower will be open 10:30 – 3:30 on Saturdays and Sundays.

Next event:       Arts and Crafts Fair�
Saturday  7 November  10:00 – 4:00 East Street

Featuring local artists and craftspeople who will be there with textiles, paintings, photography, sculpture, papier mache and cards, and much else.    Do come, browse and buy!  Light refreshments available all day.

News Flash

Rye Town Council at its meeting of 26th October voted to contribute £5000 to the Women’s Tower Project!  (See below)

More Events at East Street

Do you have these in your diary?
 

28 November:  Christmas Craft Fair  10:00 – 4:00

 5 December:    Christmas Grotto 

Meet Santa!   Starting time to be announced

12 December    Coffee Morning  10:30 – 12:30

And there are two not-to-be-missed talks before the end of the year too. 

Talks are held at the Museum’s East Street site and begin at 7:30.    Admission for members is £1.50 for members and £2.50 for guests. including refreshments.   There is always a raffle as well.

Tuesday, November 19th     Imogen Corrigan
The Dregs of the People Remain:   The Black Death and its Aftermath

After her successful talk on children in the Middle Ages,  Imogen Corrigan returns to tell us about the impact of the Black Death on people’s views of death and the afterlife.  A pertinent topic for Ryers as our Romney Marsh was profoundly affected.

Tuesday, December 8th    Monica Janssen
Ten Beds that Made History

Local author and play director Monica Janssens has written another book. this time  about Beds in Historyand will share what she has learned about ten of them in this talk at the Museum.

�
Women’s Tower Project

Since the launch of the Women’s Tower Project on 25th August, those yellow forms for buying bricks, stones, castellations and other parts for the restoration of the Women’s Tower at the Ypres Castle have continued to come in. Is yours among them?      Rye Town Council has given us a big boost by voting to grant  £5000 to the project for which we are very grateful.  We hope others will follow their good example.

Once the necessary repairs have been completed we hope to use this rare survival of a Women’s Tower to house displays showing the life of Rye’s women and children in the past. If you too would like to be part of this project and have not received a leaflet providing details and a form, do visit either of the Rye Castle Museum sites or contact the Museum (01797-226728 or info@ryemuseum.co) You would have the satisfaction of knowing you had helped to save a special building of our town so it can not only be used by Ryers but also provide yet another attraction for visitors.

 

Rye Castle Museum Website

We’ve been busy re-organising and adding articles to the site http://www.ryemuseum.co.uk/. Just uploaded are more articles under  Notable People,  Romney Marsh, Rye Harbour, Trades and Industries and  Buildings and Streets . And there is a new category:  Said about Rye  – what people of the past have said about our town.   Further additions  are on the way so keep checking….  The possibilities are endless.  Thanks to those who have already volunteered to help with typing, editing, writing,  managing photos…..  Several have already started work!   If you too would like to be part of the team,  please drop an email to jlfloydeltc@gmail.com    There are jobs for all who are willing!


Oct 27 2009

Voices from the Past: Sets 1 and 2


 1:  17th and 18th centuries

Years of Depression

1698
Celia Fiennes, Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary 

(Original spelling and punctuation)

{Tunbridge] Wells to Rye 31 miles . . . I passed much through little Lanes and villages and near Rye I went thro’ a Common full of Bushes and ffurze and heath; its a pretty steep hill I ascended which is called beggars hill and being Bartholomew tide here was a faire which was Rightly Called beggarhill faire being the saddest faire I ever saw–ragged tatter’d Booths and people–but the musick and danceing Could not be omitted.  This hill on the top gave the view of ye sea and a great tract of Land on Each side.  That is Choak’d ip witjh samd which formerly was a good haven for shipps; the sea does still Come up to Rhye town as yet but its shallow, and ye Castle which stands a Little distance–a mile–is also left of the sea at least  4 miles.  This is Winchelsea Castle . . . .

 Rhye town is not very bigg–a little Market place–this is famous for fish; from hence all the good turbutt, pearle and Dorea and al sort of sea ffish Comes to supply ye  [Tunbridge Wells] and London, but I could get little.  Ye faire took up ye fishermen. Indeed hefre I dranke Right french white wine and Exceeding good . . . .

1724
Daniel Defoe, A Tour Through England and Wales

. . . Rye would flourish again, if her harbour, which was once able to receive the royal navy, could be restored, but as it is, the bar is so loaded with sand cast up by the sea, that ships of 200 tun chuse to ride it out under Dengey or Beachy, tho’ with the greatest danger, rather than to run the hazard of going into Rye for shelter.  It is true there is now an Act of Parliament pass’d for the restoring this port to its former state, when a man of war of 70 guns might have safely gone in; but ’tis very doubful, whether it will be effectual to the main end or not, after so long a time.

Indeed our merchants ships are often put to great extremity hereabout, for there is not one safe place for them to run into, between Portsmouth and the Downs; whereas in former days, Rye Bay was an asylum, a safe hargour, whre they could to oldly in, and ride safe in all weathers, and then go to sea again at pleasure.

2:  19th Century

c1816
G.A. Cooke, Topographical and statistical Description ohe County of  Sussex

[How much of this description is still true today?   What facts have changed?]

The harbour, which is on the south-east side of the town, is at present in an indifferent state; notwithstanding it admits vessels of two hundred tons burthen, which come quite up to the town key on the north side of the town one  mile and a half from the entrance.  The town, at spring high tides, is encompassed about two thirds round with water. 

The river Rother, which washes it on the east side, before its influx into the sea, and the branch of the tides called Tillingham water, on the north-west side form together a sort of peninsula which was formerly a ferry, but which now has a bridge.

The makerel and herrings taken in the bay in their seasons are reckoned to be the finest of their kind.  All the rest of the year they troll for soles, plaice, and other flat fish, which are also excellent in their season, and which are frequently carrried up by the rippiers  to the London markets, which they perform in three stages. 

Rye is well supplied with water by pipes from two hills on the land side. 

The principal business is in hops, wool, timber, kettles,  cannon chimneybacks, etc which are cast at the iron works at Bakely, four miles to the north-west, and at Breed,  miles the south-west of the town

Revival

1850
H. P. Clark, Rye printer, in the first Guide to Rye

The road is paved with boulders . . . wth the hard ends upwards.  Visitors are respectfully cautioned to ieep their eyes open, to prevent falling or stumbling.  There are a great number of cellar doors opening in the pavement, many of which are left open and unguarded . . . Equestrians . . . will find it quite necessary to drive steady, keep in the middle, look both sides at once, and not squint!

The warning about boulders with hard end upwards elicited this reminder from William Holloway:

. . . But as Dr Johnson said, A pebble that paves the street is in itself more useful than the diamond upon a lady’s finger:

Then hobble on and never mind,
  For what’s the use of talking
Hurt or not hurt, why, only think,
  On Diamonds you are walking.

1872
Wilson, Imperial Gazeteer of England and Wales

[Rye] is a head port. a seat of petty sessions and county courts, and a polling-place, publishes two weekly newspapers, has undergone some revival of prosperity after a long period of decline . . . Presents an antiquated appearance, with narrow winding, grass-grown streets, and has a head post office, a railway station with telegraph, two banking offices, three chief inns, a town hall and market house, a jail and police station, a custom house, a remaining gate of its ancient walls, three bridges, a railway swing bridge, a church, four dissenting chapels, remains of ancient Carmelite and Augustinian friaries, an endowed grammar school with £100 a year, a national school, alms-houses., and a workhouse.

A corn and cattle market is held every alternate Wednesday and a fair on 10 Aug.  A great trade exists in wool, corn, hops, timber and oak bark; shipbuilding is carried on; works for making concrete blocks are at the harbour; and kettle nets,  for catching mackerel and other fish, are on the shore.  The harbour has been much improved and it receives vessels [from British and foreign ports] of 100 tons . . . ..

1882
Black’s Guide to Kent

A picturesque town in Rye, with a curious mouldiness of antiquity about it, with streets where horses’  hooves are not frequent enough to keep down the fast-climbling grass . . . with memories of a busy past in every stone.

1887
Coventry Padmore,  Hastings, Lewes, Rye and the Sussex Marshes

In the singularly old-world character of the streets, and in the truly superb and always different views at the end of most of them, consist the attractions of the town . . .  The precipitous streets are paved with round flints, scarely any of the houses are less than a hundred years old, and many of them at least four hundred as the moulding of cornices, barge boards, door posts, and window frames testify.

There is an unpublished character about everything in Rye.  The . . . beautiful remains of ancient architecture in Mermaid and West Streets look as if they silently apologise for surviving in the presence of Georgian taverns and doctors’ and lawyers’ mansions in the High Street.

Rye is a bit of old world living pleasantly on, in ignorance of the new–even the butchers and innkeepers going on unaware of their right to cent per cent profits.

1898
Rye Conservation: No gas or electricity please!

This citizen seems to regret that gas was ever permitted to light Rye streets.  As for any further ‘improvements for the town . . .

I would] deplore anything that would in any way modernise it.  Incandescent gas…. sadly spoils the evening effects that are so picturesque here. Let us have our cobbled streets, however unpleasant they may be to our boots.  Let us still allow grass to grow in a few of our streets, but above all, do not let us have electric light.’
Rye resident Charles Foulkes, December 1898

c 1900
Henry James, who made his home at Lamb House from 1897

At favoured seasons there appear within the precincts sundry slouch-hatted gentlemen who study Rye’s charms through a small telescope formed by their finger and thumb, leading a train of English and American lady pupils.  There are ancient doorsteps, which are used for the convenience of their views, and where the fond proprietor, going and coming,  has to pick his way among their paraphernalia or to take flying leaps over industry and genius.

 

.


Oct 25 2009

Smallhythe Shipyard


 by Susanna Mayor

In medieval times the shipyard at Smallhythe was one of the most important on the south coast.
If you look at the landscape now it is hard to believe that the River Rother once flowed through Smallhythe and out to sea at Rye. In the 14th and 15th centuries the Rother was wide enough and deep enough for the largest ships of medieval England to be built and launched here.

Today, there are  fields where there was once a wide tidal channel.

Documents held at the National Maritime Museum dating from 1326 show that shipbuilding, fitting, repair and breaking were carried out at Smallhythe.  From these documents we are able to form a picture of the range of boats that were built here. We can trace the rise of the shipyard to the height of its success with the building of the Jesus, one of the largest ships to be built in medieval England.

14th Century Round Ship

14th Century Round Ship

The first detailed reference is to the Eneswithe, a barge built at Smallhythe in 1400 for the town of New Romney. This was a sea going vessel, not a river barge, that made its maiden voyage around Cape Finisterre to La Rochelle. In 1401 a town ship was built for Rye and it is likely to have been a Cinque Port round ship. These were the vessels most commonly used by the south coast ports to import and export goods from the Continent, particularly wine from Gascony.

 

                    

A Classic Sketch of a 15th Century ShipRoyal Commissions: The Great Ships

In 1410 Henry IV ordered the Marie, a hundred ton boat, to be built at Smallhythe and four years later Henry V actually came to the shipyard to see two ships being built. It was the year after Agincourt and he had commissioned the Jesus, a 1000 ton ship, and the George, a balinger of 120 tons. A balinger was a craft that could be rowed as well as sailed. In the 15th centuy they formed the scouting and raiding forces of the English fleet.  Â
      

   Although Smallhythe coas a successful shipyard throughout the 1400s, by the 16th century came the steady decline of the river and the establishment of new dockyards elsewhere. The craftsmen had to look further afield for work and in 1514 thirty seven men from Smallhythe walked forty four miles to Woolwich to take part in the building of the Henry Grace a Dieu under the management of Robert Brigandyne; at 1400 tons it could accommodate up to 1000 men. The ship was commissioned by Henry VIII as a replacement for the 600 ton Regent which had been built downsream from Smallhythe at Reading Street in 1486 but which was lost in battle in 1512.

Ordered by Henry VIII in 1546 the Great Gailyon at 300 tons was the last large vessel to be built at Smallhythe. It was the last of the great ships and the last Royal commission for Smallhythe.

The Rother Barge

A Rother Barge

Small boats and river barges continued to be built at Smallhythe well into into the 17th century. There was a fleet of barges trading on the Rother; they were powered by sail and crewed by two men, each barge carried up to 30 tons of cargo. The cargo including coal, sand, salt and chalk was carried upstream from Rye, returning with timber, bricks, stone and hop poles.

The design of these barges remained the same from the 1500s into the 20th century and were amongst the last type of boat to be built at Smallhythe. (There is a model of one in the museum.)

An  End to the Shipyard

The decline of Smallhythe as a prosperous shipyard began in the 16th century. Smallhythe could no longer provide a haven for the numbers of ships that had once moored here as the River Rother had begun to silt up.

The river still remained an important highway for traffic, especially for cargo such as iron and wood, despite its continued deterioration.

After 1549, records of marrages, baptisms and deaths began to diminish in number suggesting a fall in the population. In 1636 the river was re-routed to the south of the Isle of Oxney and the land was drained in preparation for agricultural use and Smallhythe’s days as a Royal Dockyard were over.


Oct 25 2009

News 27 October 2009


News Flash

Rye Town Council at its meeting of 26th October voted to contribute £5000 to the Women’s Tower Project!  (See below)

A Reminder:  Winter Opening Hours begin on 1st November.  

The East Street site will be closed until April, but the Ypres Tower will be open 10:30 – 3:30 on Saturdays and Sundays.

Are these dates in your diary? 

All these events take place at the East Street site.   

7 November:     Craft Fair  10:00 – 4:00

28 November:  Christmas Craft Fair  10:00 – 4:00

 5 December:    Christmas Grotto  Meet Santa!   Starting time to be announced

12 December    Coffee Morning  10:30 – 12:30

And there are two not-to-be-missed talks before the end of the year too.  Talks are held at the Museum’s East Street site and begin at 7:30.    Admission for members is £1.50 for members and £2.50 for guests. including refreshments.   There is always a raffle as well.

Tuesday, November 19th     Imogen Corrigan
The Dregs of the People Remain:   The Black Death and its Aftermath

After her successful talk on children in the Middle Ages,  Imogen Corrigan returns to tell us about the impact of the Black Death on people’s views of death and the afterlife.  A pertinent topic for Ryers as our Romney Marsh was profoundly affected.

Tuesday, December 8th    Monica Janssen
Ten Beds that Made History

Local author and play director Monica Janssens has written another book. this time  about Beds in Historyand will share what she has learned about ten of them in this talk at the Museum.

 

 Women’s Tower Project

Since the launch of the Women’s Tower Project on 25th August, those yellow forms for buying bricks, stones, castellations and other parts for the restoration of the Women’s Tower at the Ypres Castle have continued to come in. Is yours among them?      Rye Town Council has given us a big boost by voting to grant  £5000 to the project for which we are very grateful.  We hope others will follow their good example.

Once the necessary repairs have been completed we hope to use this rare survival of a Women’s Tower to house displays showing the life of Rye’s women and children in the past. If you too would like to be part of this project and have not received a leaflet providing details and a form, do visit either of the Rye Castle Museum sites or contact the Museum (01797-226728 or info@ryemuseum.co) You would have the satisfaction of knowing you had helped to save a special building of our town so it can not only be used by Ryers but also provide yet another attraction for visitors.

Rye Castle Museum Website

We’ve been busy re-organising and adding articles to the site http://www.ryemuseum.co.uk/. Just uploaded are more articles under  Notable People,  Romney Marsh, Rye Harbour, Trades and Industries and  Buildings and Streets . And there is a new category:  Said about Rye  – what people of the past have said about our town.   Further additions  are on the way so keep checking….  The possibilities are endless.  Thanks to those who have already volunteered to help with typing, editing, writing,  managing photos…..  Several have already started work!   If you too would like to be part of the team,  please drop an email to jlfloydeltc@gmail.com    There are jobs for all who are willing!


Oct 24 2009

Oak Corner


One of Mermaid Street’s earliest houses

Oak Corner. on the corner of Mermaid Street and Traders Passage, dates back to the 15th Century or even earlier. It was a favourite hang out for smugglers, supposedly having hidy holes and entrances to a tunnel system used for storing and moving on contraband under the very noses of the revenue men who operated from a building just a stones throw away from it.

In more modern times it was used as a guest house and during the 1950’s, when it was owned by the Cooper-Keys , Oak Corner played host to many film stars including Dennis Price.  John Mills stayed there during the making of the film  Dunkirk.

In the depth of each winter it played host to players competing in the President’s Putter, a competition that still takes place annually, weather permitting. The knock-out competition is open to all golfing enthusiasts who attended Oxford and Cambridge Universities.

Now, as a private house, it is enjoying its retirement.


Oct 23 2009

News October 23 2009


NEWS FLASH

Smugglers Discovery Day Cancellation

Sadly,  due to unforeseen circumstances beyond our control, the Smugglers Discovery Day announced for Saturday, 24th October, 12-4 p.m cannot after all take place.   We apologize with deep regret for the disappointment caused.  However, you will still be very welcome at the Museum—either site or both!

 For more dates to put in your diary, check the Events and Talks pages.

 Women’s Tower Project

Since the launch of the Women’s Tower Project on 25th August,  those yellow forms for buying bricks, stones, castellations and other parts for the restoration of the Women’s Tower at the Ypres Castle have continued to come in.   Is yours among them?   Once the necessary repairs have been completed we hope to use this rare survival of a Women’s Tower to house displays showing the life of Rye’s women and children in the past.

The challenge  of  raising  the £74,000 needed to restore the tower is an immense one, but the launch evening–a beautiful one enjoyed by many Ryers–got the project off to an encouraging start and there have been some generous donations.   If you too would like to be part of this project and have not received a leaflet providing details and a form,  do visit either of the Rye Castle Museum sites or contact the Museum  (01797-226728 or info@ryemuseum.co)    You would have the satisfaction of knowing you had helped to save  a special building of our town so it can not only be used by Ryers but also  provide yet another attraction for visitors.

 Please scroll down to the bottom for news of another project you may wish to help with.: Rye Castle Museum website!

Museum of British Folklore

Did you miss Simon Costin’s talk or the chance to visit the  delightful folk-museum-in-a-caravan parked by the Ypres Tower last weekend?   Judging from both verbal and visitors’ book comments, those who came were convinced that a permanent Museum of British Folklore would be a Very Good Idea.   You an find out more at  www.museumofbritishfolklore.co.uk or by emailing Simon at scostin@dircon.co.uk 

And in November and December

Two Craft Fairs,  the Christmas Grotto… Do you see why more volunteers are always welcome?

Rye Castle Museum Website 

We’ve been busy re-organising and adding articles to the site www.ryemuseum.co.uk.  Just uploaded are articles on Romney Marsh, Rye Harbour,  Trades and Industries (Inns, Shipbuilding)  and more are on the way so keep checking.  … The possibilities are endless but we could use some help in getting articles ready to publish.  Could you help?

Here are three ways you might contribute:

As Typist.  We would especially like to find people who could key in existing content.  It’s easy: you register as a User, type and save your work as a Draft.  An editor then opens your draft, checks the formatting, inserts some illustrations and maybe a link or two to related pages or sites, and clicks Publish.  Think how fast we could develop the site with this kind of help!   A simple instruction sheet is available.

As Photographer/\Photo editor  Do you work with photos on the web?  Perhaps you use Photoshop? Besides a photographer or two we could use the expertise of anyone who could help us select, edit, resize and label photos and other illustrations for the Media Library within our site–the collection of images available to insert as illustrations for articles.

As Researcher/Information source/Writer  Do you know a lot about some aspect of Rye’s history?  A business, craft or industry?  A street or building?  A neighbouring village?  Rye in WWII?  Earlier military history?  Schools or leisure pursuits of times past?  Or would you like to research some topic?  Or, if you don’t want to write, what about being interviewed?

If you would like to know more about helping in any of these–or other–ways,  please contact us!


Oct 20 2009

The Harbour of Rye


Fishing boats on the Rother at Rye Harbour Looking across to the Harbour Master's Office.
  Fishing boats on the Rother at Rye Harbour.    Looking across to the Harbour Master’s Office.
This is an edited extract from Ryennium by Jo Kirkham , illustrated by Brian Hargreaves. Copies  are still available at the Town Hall.

Rye has always been a port, from the time it was an island. The Roman iron production in the area was under the control of the Roman Fleet, Classis Britannica, which exported it from here to the rest of Europe.  A senior Cinque Port from the 12th Century, it was the home of the Royal Galleys from 1240, and has been a fishing, shipbuilding and trading port throughout 1000 years. It has also been very involved with pirating, smuggling and also coastguard patrols! Pirating ships, cargoes and their sailors for ransom was a lucrative source of income for the Town and a legitimate one in time of war and when Ryers were licensed by the Crown as Privateers.

Smugglers Lantern

 

Smugglers Lantern

Wool smuggling

Smuggling began when Edward I imposed customs duties on wool to boost the royal revenue. Despite the penalty being death, almost everyone in the area was involved in ‘owling’ . This was the term for smuggling  here because of the calls between the men. A specialised lantern used for secret communication amongt the smugglers is kept in the Museum.

Wool was smuggled out in return for luxury goods, including spirits, tobacco and tea. There were few convictions as the juries were local,   and also because many buildings in Rye were modified–with secret cupboards, panels and ‘hidey-holes’ for the contraband, and secret passages and ways through the attics for the smugglers to escape capture.

 In the 1670’s it is estimated that 200,000 packs of wool were exported from Rye to Calais alone each year. Riding officers and later dragoons tried to control it, but by the 18th century, gangs ran the ‘trade’, using the inns in Rye as bases. The notorious ‘murder’ of Allan Grebell, Deputy Mayor of Rye,  by one John Breeds was possibly a smuggling-related crime. Whatever the reason, that killing resulted in Breeds being hung in chains and swinging on Gibbet’s Marsh for many years.

A blockade of the port in 1817 and the later establishment of the coastguard began the final defeat. A fight at Camber in 1832 was between 200 smugglers and coastguards. A boat with 26 casks of spirits was seized and several men shot and wounded.

Society then began to change, and the abolition of duties with a policy of  Free Trade helped in the decline. A long coastline, however, is always difficult to patrol and, in more recent times, drugs and illegal immigrants have been smuggled in.

Barges, boulder boats and ferries

Sketch of a Rother bargeRye was a cross-channel port, especially to Boulogne and Dieppe, and was the main postal route for London-Rye-Dieppe-Paris and beyond for centuries. It was also a trans-shipment point where imported goods were put into river barges to be taken up the Brede, Tillingham and Rother; t wun be delivered to points inland.  These barges, used until the 1930’s, had not changed from the Middle Ages. Manned by a skipper and a mate, they were 50 feet long and carried 20 tons of cargo-usually coal, shingle and timber. The cargoes were loaded and unloaded in large wheelbarrows that held 4 hundredweight, which were pushed across planks between barge and bank. 

‘Boulder boats’ were loaded with coastal shingle, which was then transferred by men carrying the blue boulders in baskets suspended from yokes, to the railway wagons, to be sent to the Potteries.

There were ferries across the Tillingham on Ferry Road for traffic to go to Hastings via Udimore and across the Rother, as part of the route to the Marsh until 1893 when Monkbretton Bridge was built. The ferryman’s cottage is still there.

 The Rye Harbour ferry, run by the Cutting family for many years, ran until just after the last war,  when people were expected to ‘ go round’ via Rye, to the Camber side of the river.

Rye shipbuilding

Shipbuilding has been very important for hundreds of years. In 1377, when a fleet of 20 ships took troops to the Hundred Years War, four of them had been built in Rye. Most were about 40 tons, but the 1000-ton Regent  built at Smallhythe, was fitted out in Rye for Henry VII.  Another, of 150 tons, the  Hercules, was built and crewed in Rye to go on the Cadiz expedition in 1596.

 The peak of the shipbuilding industry was in the mid-19th century,e.g.

  •  In the four years 1852-6, twenty-six vessels, schooners and brigantines were built.
  • In  1856, three mortar boats were built for use in the Crimean War.
  • By the 1870’s the main ships built were fishing vessels and sailing trawlers, especially for the North Sea ports.

 During the Second World War, extensions to the jetties, slipways and a turntable were built. G&T Smith built 8 MFV’s (Motor Fishing Vessels), for sweeping magnetic mines. At least two were sent to Singapore for the war with Japan. 

Small craft, mainly in fibreglass, and RNLI boats were built along Rock Channel until very recently..

All the associated trades were well established in Rye such as chandlers, blacksmiths and sail-makers, and, from the latter part of the 19th century,  iron founders. It is a sail-maker’s loft that now houses the Heritage Centre and Tourist Office.

For a detailed article  go to Shipbuilding

Rye ships and mariners sailed the world

Rye’s mariners have always been intrepid. A Rye ship went on a voyage of exploration to Brazil in 1539; a sailor went with Captain Hawkins to Guinea in 1567 and yet another went with Drake on his round the world voyage from 1577-80.

A Rye ship, the Cadborough was bought by the Hudson Bay Company and used to explore and mapthe coast of British Colombia, and another became the first European ship to sail direct to Chicago in 1859.

Emigrant ships from Rye took local settlers to Rye, New Hampshire in the 1620’s, Rye, New York in the 1670’s and to Rye and Winchelsea, New South Wales, Australia in the 1830’s and 40’s.


Oct 20 2009

Artists in Rye


Sussex has  been a Mecca for artists coming in search of seaside subjects since the early nineteenth century and Rye has always been a particular favourite with those who paint and draw.    Why did they come?  What drew them to this corner of England?  There is no Rye School of Painting and no typical Rye painting.  The artists who have come to Rye have all practised their own style and been very individual.  This is still  true of the many contemporary artists living in and around Rye to-day.

Perhaps this has something to do with the fact that Rye has always been a subversive town, wanting to do its own thing, disregardi ng laws and convention.  This may be because the town is perched in an eerie, holding out against the forces of the sea and the land.  Artists, often by their very nature stand against the forces of Society.  They try to stand apart in order to see the reality of things before offering their version through their chosen medium.

To the artists who live in it or about it Rye has always offered freedom, companionship, and conviviality in a  place where their art can be seen and appreciated by the many visitors drawn to Rye by its reputation as a centre of excellence in the fine arts.

Listed below are some of the artists who have contributed to Rye’s fame.

BAYNES, Keith (1887 – 1977) Lived in Rye for many years and was a friend of Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant and Raoul Dufy, the latter having a lasting influence on him.  He exhibited regularly with the London Group from 1919.

BURRA, Edward (1905 – 1976) Not all artists who lived and worked in Rye loved the town, and Burra, though he was born and raised in Rye and spent much of his life here, called it ‘Tinseltown’.  His home was at Springfield House on Rye Hill.  In later life he painted scenes of Rye which exposed a dark, hard side, rather than the pretty tourist version.  As a student Burra revealed a talent for popular illustration and the bizarre aspects of everyday existence.  Cinema, dance and music halls and low-life bars were constant sources of inspiration.  He and his good friend John Banting (1902 – 1972) often trailed the bars of Hastings in search of a good time.

CHING, Raymond (1939) has lived and worked for many years in Rye.  His wildlife studies, particularly of birds are world renowned.

FRENCH, Kitty (1924 – 1989) was Head of Art at Thomas Peacocke School.  Her paintings and collages are wonderfully witty and often cutting.  Although she did not produce a vast quantity of work she has a fervent following of collectors.  Her influence on the next generation of artists who were educated in Rye has been enormous.  Many of the over three hundred artists living and working in the environs of Rye to-day came under her influence both as a teacher and as a flamboyant bohemian about Rye.

MACKECHNIE, Robert Sang (1894 – 1975) and BARNARD, Margaret Helen (1892 – 1990), both came to live in Rye in 1925 and their home was at  4 Watchbell Street.  This husband and wife team was highly influential in the art scene of their day.  Robert Mackecknie being the enfant terrible of his day.  He also established the 7 & 5 Society in 1919.  Many of the finest twentieth century British artists were involved in this society.  Mackechnie had a breakdown and was never able to produce work that lived up to his early promise, but his friends, Ivon Hitchens, Christopher Wood, Ben Nicholson and Cedric Morris are well known names in the history of British art.  However, Mackechnie has been largely forgotten.  His wife, Margaret Barnard was a fine painter but it was as a designer and lino-cut printer that she made her name.  Some fine examples of her work are held in the Rye Art Gallery Collection.

NASH, Paul (1889 – 1946) Came to Rye after having a breakdown brought on by the horrors he had witnessed as a War Artist during the First World War and lived at the top of East Street where there is now a plaque.  The bleakness of the paintings during his time in Rye reflects the mental bleakness which afflicted him.  His views of the Marsh and of the sea seawall are wonderful paintings, yet with an overriding sadness about them.

STORMONT, Howard Gull (1859 – 1935) and SAPWORTH, Mary Elizabeth (1871 – 1962) In 1898 Howard Stormont and Mary Sapworth eloped to Rye and were married in St Mary’s Church.  They settled in Rye in an old candle-makers loft which they converted into a studio, where they spent the rest of their lives painting.  Any visiting artist of note would visit the Stormonts, who were well respected artists and who regularly exhibited at the Royal Academy.  Henry James was a good friend and came to tea as was Beatrix Potter who stayed with the Stormonts during her holidays in Rye.  The Stormonts were also collectors of art and it was this collection which formed the basis of the Permanent Collection left in Trust for the people of Rye.  This went with an endowment fund and their home, to provide an Art Gallery where the people of Rye and the surrounding area could experience fine art at first hand.  After Mary Stormont died the Rye Art Gallery was established and flourishes to this day.

There have been some very fine artists who have lived on Rye Hill and these include Charles Lewis Powels who produced large numbers of watercolours of the Romney Marsh and Rye.  Elsie Druce produced woodcuts and Dinah Low (1911 -1975) painted beautiful, evocative paintings of the sea and children.  She used the people of Rye to populate her paintings.

The numbers of artists who have visited Rye and painted it are legion.  This includes Turner who painted many views of Rye and Winchelsea, Van Dyck who drew some of the earliest views of Rye, Albert Godwin (1845 -1932) who painted it many times and also Herbert Menzies Marshall (1841 -1913). 

Lucian Pissaro, Christopher Wood and J. B. Mason spent a very productive summer holiday painting Rye.  William Christopher Symons, who lived outside Rye and who was one of the designers who decorated the interior of Westminster Cathedral produced wonderful, vibrant oil paintings of Rye and its environs.  Sir Frank Short R.A., who lived at Seaford, produced some fine etchings and watercolours of Rye. 

Evacatus Phipson, a jobbing painter, visited Rye and painted many houses and important sites in the early twentieth century.  Some of these are in the Museum.  A large collection of his work can be seen at the Victoria and Albert Museum.  John Millais lived and worked in Winchelsea.  Hercules Brabazon, one of Britain’s finest watercolourists lived in Sedlescombe, some miles away but was a regular visitor to Rye.  John Piper drew many of the churches on the Marsh for the Pilgrim Trust project of recording Britain.

Pots and Clay have been an integral part of Rye since early time and that tradition continues to-day with Wally Cole living and working in Rye, together with the many other potters, some of whom were trained by him.  Wally Cole is one of a small number of highly influential figures in the art of potting in Britain to-day.


Oct 20 2009

Writers in Rye


There have been many writers in Rye over the centuries but it was from the late nineteenth century onwards that writers came to live in the town. By then it was more accessible because of the railway and it was seen as an unspoilt place of great charm. Henry James’ decision to live in Rye enhanced its already fashionable status amongst those wanting a rural retreat,

All the writers listed below lived in Rye and the immediate area.  Still more who visited or lived slightly further afield will be the subject of a future article.

AITKEN, Conrad (1889 – 1973)     American poet, novelist, short story writer, essayist, and editor, regarded as important influence on modern poetry. Lived at Jeake’s’House, Mermaid Street between 1923 and 1939. Works include Great Circle and King Coffin.  His children also became well-regarded authors, e.g. Joan Aitken wrote  a number of successful novels for children and teenagers such as The Wolves of Willoughby Chase and  Black Hearts in Battersea.

ATTWELL, Mabel Lucie (1879 – 1964)   Illustrator for books and magazines. Lived at Robin Hill, Mermaid Street, in the 1920’s.  Developed a trademark style of sentimentalized rotund cuddly infants, which became ubiquitous across a wide range of markets: cards, calendars, dolls….

BATSFORD, Sir Brian Cook (1910-1991)  Publisher, illustrator, painter and politician.  Lived at 10 Watchbell Street, then Lamb House, 1980 – 1987.  Best known as Brian Cook, the illustrator/designer of the dust jackets of the highly-collectable Batsford books from the 1930s to the 1950s.

BENSON, A.C. (1862 – 1925)  Biographer and one of the most prolific and popular essayists of the Edwardian period. Son of an archbishop of Canterbury, editor of the selected letters of Queen Victoria, and author of “Land of Hope and Glory”  Lived at Lamb House 1919-1925. Works include  The Trefoil, Maggie Benson, From a College Window and Rossetti.  He sometimes shared Lamb House with his brother E.F. Benson.

BENSON, E.F. (1867 – 1940) Prolific novelist, autobiographer and biographer and now more famous brother of A.C.Benson. Best remembered for his Tilling novels, social comedies set in Rye in the 1920’s and 30’s and featuring the rivalry between Mapp and Lucia. Mayor of Rye 1935 – 7.  Lived at Lamb House 1917 -1940.  Other works include Do Do, Our Family Affairs, Charlotte Bronte, Secret Lives and Final Edition.

BRADLEY, Arthur G (1850 – 1943).   Biographer and travel writer. Lived at West Watch, Traders Passage. His books include Canada, Life of Wolfe, the Highways and Byways series and The Story of the Kentish Cinque Ports.

CLARK, Dr. Edmund (1790 – 1836) Mountaineer who wrote The Ascent of Mont Blanc in 1825n

CHRISTOPHER, John (b 1922) , chief pseuudonym of Samual Youd, of Whitefriars, Conduit Hill.  An award-winning writer of science fiction, much of it for teenagers, he has written some 50 books, the  best known of which are The Death of Grass , The Guardians and  The Tripods  trilogy (The White Mountains, The City of Gold and Lead, and The Pool of Fire) whch was dramatized on TV.

DARWIN, Bernard (1876-1961).  Writer, authority on Dickens and golfer.   Grandson of Charles and Emma Darwin, and mostly  raised by his grandparents   Lived at the Dormy House by the Landgate in the 1950’s.    Wrote for The Times for 45 years, also for Country Life.   Twice  Captain of Rye Golf Club, in 1906 and 1956, a gap of 50 years! Of his book of essays On Golf It has been said that “Nobody ever knew more about golf than Darwin or wrote about it so intuitively.”

DICKINSON, Patric (1914 – 1994) Poet, playwright and broadcaster. Lived at 38 Church Square. Edited several anthologies and collections of his own poetry.  Works include This Cold Universe, Rift in Time, Not Hereafter, Durable Fire and The Good Minute.

FABES, Gilbert (1894 – 1973)  Antiquarian Bookseller in Rye and writer.  Works include Autobiography of a Book and Romance of a Bookshop.

GODDEN, Rumer (1907 – 1998)  One of the foremost English language authors of the 20th century, writing novels, biographies, children’s books and poetry–some 60 works altogether including an autobiography, A  House with Four Rooms.  Lived at Lamb House 1967 -1974 and also at Hartshorn House in Mermaid Street. Her books include The River, This House of Brede, An Episode of Sparrows, Black Narcissus, Greengage Summer, Time to Dance,  No Time to Weep and several booiks for children and teenagers, e.g. A Kindle of Kittens, The Diddakoi, Thursday’s Children and A Peacock Spring.   Several of her books were made into films.

 HALL, Radclyffe (1880 – 1943).  Novelist who lived in Rye with her great friend,  Lady Una Troubridge between1928 and 1943.    She lived in various houses including   Santa Maria in West Street, 8 Watchbell Street,  The Forecastle in Hucksteps Row, off Church Square, and Black Boy (later Charles II Guest House) in the High Street . Her best-known book is the lesbian-themed The Well of Loneliness . Other critically acclaimed works include Adam’s Breed, The Unlit Lamp, The Well of Loneliness  and The Sixth Beatitude (about life on Hucksteps Row).

HYDE, H. Montgomery (1907 – 1990) Biographer and historian, specialising in the 1890’s as well as a barrister and politician. Lived at Lamb House 1963 – 196; he was a distant cousin of Henry James. His books include  Famous Trials: Oscar Wilde, Lord Alfred Douglas,  Henry James at Home, Mexican Empire, Lord Castlereagh and Princess Lieven,

IRWIN, Margaret ( d. 967) Historical novelist and noted authority on Elizabethan and early Stuart England.  She lived at Fir Crest (now Arling House) in Hilly Fields, Rye Hill in the 1940’s.  Her fifteen novels were esteemed for the accuracy of their historial research and the first in a trilogy on Queen Elizabeth, Young Bess, was made into a film.  Other works include The Bride, Royal Flush, That Great Lucifer: a portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh and Gay  Galliard (the story of Mary Queen of Scots).

JAMES, Henry (1843 – 1916)  American born prodigious writer of fiction as well as travel, biography, plays and criticism , regarded as a key figure of literary realism. He  lived in Britain for the last 40 years of  his life and  at Lamb House 1898- 1916 , where he wrote several of his major works.   Books include The Turn of the Screw, Daisy Miller, What Maisie Knew, Washington Square, Portriat of a Lady, The Wings of a Dove, The Ambassadors and The Golden Bowl, the last three written in Rye.

JEAKE, Samuel (1623 – 1690).  Writer, astrologer, polymath.   Lived on Mermaid Street.  Wrote on the Cinque Ports and  also wrote the first history of Rye.  Lived in what is now Hartshorn House, his wool store is now Jeake’s House.

MERYON, Charles (1783 – 1877)  Doctor who  accompanied Lady Hester Stanhope on her travels in the Middle East. He published  The Travels of Lady Hester Stanhope in 1846.  The Meryon family lived in what is now known as The White Vine. 

Dr. MERYON, Edward  (1807 – 1880). Natural son of John Meryon (one time mayor)  and nephew of Charles Meryon (above).    Became a distinguished and respected doctor, a Vice President of the Royal Medical and Chirurgical Society and a Council member of the Royal College of Physicians.  He did extensive research on muscular dystrophy in the early 1850’s .   It has been argued that the disease should be known as Meryon’s Disease rather than Duchenne’s Disease as his was the earlier work and more significant; the reason given for the lack of recognition is that   Duchenne’s work was  published in a more prominent journal and more widely.  Other works included The Constitution of Man and History of Medicine (1862).

RYAN, John (1922-2009)  Author, illustrator and animator, creator of Captain Pugwash and other well-loved characters of book and TV.  Lived at Gungarden Cottage near the Ypres Tower with artist wife Priscilla Blomfield Ryan, a staunch Rye Museum supporter.  Captain Pugwash animated shorts became a long-running BBC series and the Captain Pugwash books are still popular.   There is a Captain Pugwash display in the  Rye Museum.   More  background to the man and his work is available here.   

TODHUNTER, Isaac (1820 – 1884)  Son of the first minister of Rye’s  non-conformist church (now The Studio) on Watchbell Street.  A Cambridge mathematics don, he was also a Latin and Greek scholar,  familiar with at least 8 other  languages,  and knowledgeable in other fields.   He was a prolific writer of textbooks on mathematical subjects which were widely translated (e.g. into Urdu) and thought to be the most widely used in the world.  He is considered one of the great mathematicians of the 19th century because of his many works on the history of mathematics.

VIDLER, Alec (1899 – 1990).  Born in Rye, son of Leopold Vidler (below), he became a clergyman, later Dean of King’s College Cambridge and after retirement,  Mayor of Rye.    A writer of many books on aspects of religion, including Marriage and Religion, God’s Judgement of Europe, A Variety of Catholic Modernists and the autobiographical Scenes from a Clerical Life.

VIDLER, Leopold (1870 – 1954) born in Rye and father of Alec. Mayor of Rye and a Freeman, also founder and first Curator of Rye Museum. Lived at The Friars of the Sack in Church Square, owned by the family since 1801. He wrote A New History of Rye, still the most thorough history of the town.

WARRENDER, Lady Maud (1870 – 1945) Socialite who lived at Leasam on Rye Hill and entertained Edward VII, Edward Elgar, Henry James and E.F.Benson. She wrote an autobiography, My First Sixty Years

WHELPTON, Eric (1894 – 1981) Writer of nearly 30 travel books and guides popular in the 1950’s and ’60’s.   He lived at West Watch in Traders Passage.   At Oxford he had became a close friend of Dorothy Sayers who based her character of Lord Peter Whimsey on him and who later became his literary secretary.  During WWII he was a BBC news correspondent in Europe.  His last two books, The Making of a European (1974) and The Making of an Englishman (1977), are largely autobiographical.


Oct 18 2009

News 19 October 2009


Discovery Day: Smuggling!
Saturday  24th October, 10-4 

How much does your family know about Smuggling in and around Rye?

  • Why did the men of Rye and Winchelsea turn to smuggling? 
  • What kinds of things were smuggled in—and out?
  • What was ‘owling’?
  • How did smugglers hide goods from the customs men?
  • Why and when did smuggling decline?
  • What smugglers’ gang used to congregate at the Mermaid Inn?

 Bring your children and grandchildren to the Rye Museum Discovery Day to learn and have fun:  Further details to come.      For an article on this site about Smuggling in Rye, click here.

 For more dates to put in your diary, check the Events and Talks pages.

 Women’s Tower Project

Since the launch of the Women’s Tower Project on 25th August,  those yellow forms for buying bricks, stones, castellations and other parts for the restoration of the Women’s Tower at the Ypres Castle have continued to come in.   Is yours among them?   Once the necessary repairs have been completed we hope to use this rare survival of a Women’s Tower to house displays showing the life of Rye’s women and children in the past.

The challenge  of  raising  the £74,000 needed to restore the tower is an immense one, but the launch evening–a beautiful one enjoyed by many Ryers–got the project off to an encouraging start and there have been some generous donations.   If you too would like to be part of this project and have not received a leaflet providing details and a form,  do visit either of the Rye Castle Museum sites or contact the Museum  (01797-226728 or info@ryemuseum.co)    You would have the satisfaction of knowing you had helped to save  a special building of our town so it can not only be used by Ryers but also  provide yet another attraction for visitors.

 Please scroll down to the bottom for news of another project you may wish to help with.: Rye Castle Museum website!

Museum of British Folklore

Did you miss Simon Costin’s talk or the chance to visit the  delightful folk-museum-in-a-caravan parked by the Ypres Tower last weekend?   Judging from both verbal and visitors’ book comments, those who came were convinced that a permanent Museum of British Folklore would be a Very Good Idea.   You an find out more at  www.museumofbritishfolklore.co.uk or by emailing Simon at scostin@dircon.co.uk 

And in November and December

Two Craft Fairs,  the Christmas Grotto… Do you see why more volunteers are always welcome?

Rye Castle Museum Website 

We’ve been busy re-organising and adding articles to the site www.ryemuseum.co.uk.  Just uploaded are articles on Romney Marsh, Rye Harbour,  Trades and Industries (Inns, Shipbuilding)  and more are on the way so keep checking.  … The possibilities are endless but we could use some help in getting articles ready to publish.  Could you help?

Here are three ways you might contribute:

As Typist.  We would especially like to find people who could key in existing content.  It’s easy: you register as a User, type and save your work as a Draft.  An editor then opens your draft, checks the formatting, inserts some illustrations and maybe a link or two to related pages or sites, and clicks Publish.  Think how fast we could develop the site with this kind of help!   A simple instruction sheet is available.

As Photographer/\Photo editor  Do you work with photos on the web?  Perhaps you use Photoshop? Besides a photographer or two we could use the expertise of anyone who could help us select, edit, resize and label photos and other illustrations for the Media Library within our site–the collection of images available to insert as illustrations for articles.

As Researcher/Information source/Writer  Do you know a lot about some aspect of Rye’s history?  A business, craft or industry?  A street or building?  A neighbouring village?  Rye in WWII?  Earlier military history?  Schools or leisure pursuits of times past?  Or would you like to research some topic?  Or, if you don’t want to write, what about being interviewed?

If you would like to know more about helping in any of these–or other–ways,  please contact us!


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