The Romney Marsh
In this section: the fifth continent --- marsh formation --- marsh drainage --- farming --- Dungeness power station --- Dungeness lighthouses --- churches --- Rhee wall

 

The Rother Changes its Course
During this period, the people of New Romney were increasingly concerned with the condition of the river or canal and consequently of their harbour which was being blocked by silt and shingle. A further 2.5 miles (4.1 kms), of cana1 were excavated to make a new outfall to the sea. It was to no avail; the river at Appledore now turned south flowing through the inundated lands to Rye and the sea. The Walland, Guldeford and Pett Marshes were covered with tidal water and for the next 500 years man took advantage of the siltation process and enclosed or ‘inned’ the salt marshes. The name ‘Walland’ marsh is as its name implies- ‘wa11-land’; Guldeford takes its name from the Gilford family who inned this marsh from 1478 to 1716, the last large scale innings took place along the fringes of Walland Marsh and the estuary of the Rother by the Salts Marsh Embankment Act 1833.

Wet Fences
Approximately 80% of the landscape features have evolved over many centuries with a pattern of fields formed of old salt marsh creeks connected with man made ditches, the farming community refer to the system as Wet Fencing. Centuries ago winter drainage of the land was a problem in those areas away from the tidal channels, with little gradient in the water courses, general water logging must have occurred. In summer, a simple system of artificially retaining water would have been devised. Fog and marsh mists being common place, in these conditions a form of malaria referred to as the ‘Marsh Ague’ was prevalent.

Farming
Sheep have grazed the marshes for centuries; the quality of its pastures, thanks to the alluvial deposits, is renowned. The sheep known as Kent or Romney pure breed are believed to have originated in Flanders; the fleece is long and close giving it the hardy qualities necessary to withstand the rigours of marsh winters. By 14th century England’s most important export was wool; tax provided a major source of revenue; the smuggling out of wool remained a clandestine trade into the 19th century. In l939 there were some 200,000 sheep on the marsh, but after five years of war, the sheep being sent away to the hill farmers in Yorkshire, the numbers were halved and arable farming had increased four-fold to 15,000 acres and remains roughly the same today.

Counter Invasion Measures
In 1940 the Pett Marsh suffered a temporary disaster, lasting 4 years; it was deliberately inundated by the sea as a counter invasion measure, the then sea wall was breached, flooding almost its total area, only being retained on its landward edge by the western bank of the Royal Military Canal, its purpose was to stop aircraft landing invasion forces, whereas in all other areas of the marshes and river valleys, individual fields were planted with thousands of 20 foot (6 m) poles cut from the local woodlands.

The Rhee Wall
The major feature of the Romney Marsh today is the Rhee Wall, which literally dissects the marsh, Romney Marsh proper to the east and Walland Marsh to the west, following the line of the original embanked canal, in the 12th century attached to the rising ground on the western edge of Appledore village, today its line resumes on the south side of the Royal Military Canal, a classified road the B2080 leads south to Brenzett joining the A259, passing Old Romney to Hammonds Corner where it ceases to be defined as it crosses the fields to the site of its ancient outfall.

Coastal Areas
The shore-line of the marsh has over the centuries been split into three specific areas by accumulations of shingle due to long-shore drift; east of Pett Marsh to the River Rother Mouth; east of Walland Marsh at Jurys Gap to Dungeness point, curving north to Greatstone; and finally an area north of the Redoubt beyond Dymchurch to Hythe. Between these areas the marshes have been exposed to the sea, they consist of Pett, Walland and Romney Marsh proper. Originally only having the natura1 protection of a shingle fore-shore and crest, they were prone to move landward, and creep onto the marsh unhindered. Today these marshes are protected by sea-walls.